Old and new
Traditional appellation wine versus a modern blend from Piemonte. Vietti, Barolo DOCG, Castiglione 2004 In June of '08 I noted brown spices and licorice on a very tannic frame that is balanced by acidity and extract. In April of '09, this wine is...
Island wine from Portugal
Cossart Gordon Madeira 5 Years Old Malmsey nv This is a rich style of Madeira from the Malvasia grape, known as Malmsey. The nose features toffee and caramel with a healthy dose of toasted nuts. In the mouth, you taste all of that in a framework of...
Riesling and Gewurztraminer differentiated
Though often talked about in the same breath, these two grapes are quite dissimiliar. Esterlina Cole Ranch Dry Riesling 2006 Concentrated stone fruit wrapped in acidity - long, great, delicious. P&B in Healdsburg 13.8% $14.99 at Bottle Barn...
Gris and grigio
This flight examines 3 approaches to the grape that goes by both the names Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio. Cantina Terlano Alto Adige Pinot Grigio Denominazione di Origine Controllata 2006 Mineral and stone fruit flavors with palpable acidity. Bottled...
Nutty dessert
Lustau, Sherry, Denominaciónes de Origen, Solera Reserva, Rare Cream nv This is a step up from Lustau's Deluxe Cream Sherry and cries out for a fireplace after dinner. There's tons of complexity to this wine, the sort of experience for the nose...
Rioja star
Muga Rioja DOC Reserva 2004 This wine has some guts for aging. There's sweet oak, black fruit and a nice light level of brett to add complexity to this structured baby. 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and 10% Mazuelo and Graciano. The wine spent 6...
Spanish values
San Alejandro Calatalud Las Rocas Garnacha 2005 100% Grenache, 70-100 years old. The Las Rocas line is bottled for Eric Solomon, from a cooperative effort of growers in Calatalud. Elabroado y embotellado in Miedes 14.5% $8.49 at Bottle Barn Legaris...
Albarino in vogue
Albarino, a.k.a., Alvarinho, is hot. This refresher from Iberia is becoming more visible in America, with more imports from abroad and more plantings on the homefront. Condes de Albarei, Rias Baixas DO, Albarino 2007 Fully aromatic and lip smacking...
Partners in wine
Zin and Petite often work together, one behind the scenes of the other who gets the billing on the label. Claudia Springs Redwood Valley John Ricetti Vineyard Zinfandel 2005 There's jammy fruit and a little warmth from the alcohol. Winemaker Bob...
A touch of sweetness
Pine Ridge California Chenin Blanc - Viognier 2007 Pine Ridge has made some incarnation of Chenin for years. This blend couples 80% Chenin Blanc, which has ample acidity, with 20% Viognier, adding aromatics and lusciousness. There's a touch of...