Monthly Archives: July 2008

Last train to Clarksburg

Bogle, California, Chenin Blanc 2005 This back vintage was lingering in the cellar. There’s a sense of candied tropical fruits, roundness in the palate augmented by a touch of RS and braced by an appropriate amount of acidity. It’s all … Continue reading

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Bring on the sawmill

J. Keverson, Mendocino County, Janes Vineyard, Sangiovese 2005 If you like your New World Sangiovese heavy on the oak, this is your wine. There’s loads of sweet-oaky essence all over this supple wine. The moderate acidity will feel a disappointment … Continue reading

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Going the distance

Gunderloch, Rheinhessen, Jean-Baptiste, Riesling, Kabinett QmP 2002 This wine goes on after 6 years since the harvest, despite evidence of leaking and a then newish screwcap seal that appears to not have been perfect. There are notes of lanolin and … Continue reading

Posted in Germany, Rheinhessen, Riesling | Leave a comment

The diversity that is sparkling wine

J, Russian River Valley, cuvee 20 nv Clean, fresh, fruit, tasted at the winery in May. This wine has the zip of fresh green apples. The base wine is from a recent vintage with 25% oak-aged reserves adding to the … Continue reading

Posted in California, Champagne, Chardonnay, France, Italy, Moscato d'Asti, Muscat, Piemonte, Sparkling sweet | Leave a comment


Husch, Anderson Valley, Pinot Noir 2006 Cherries and earth in a light-bodied package – a little rustic and a touch bitter. Aged for 9 months in French oak. P&B in Philo 13.9% $22.99 at Traverso’s Husch Navarro, Anderson Valley Mendocino, … Continue reading

Posted in Anderson Valley, Burgundy, California, Mendocino County, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County | Leave a comment

Charming Chardonnay

Charles Creek, Napa County Carneros, Chardonnay, Por Favor 2006 There’s minerality and a touch of cheese in the nose and a bracing taste of stone fruits with some creaminess in the mouth. This Chardonnay is fermented in stainless and aged … Continue reading

Posted in Burgundy, California, Carneros, Chablis, Chardonnay, Napa Valley | Leave a comment

California heavyweights

Some heavyweights are elegant on their feet, others draw lots of money in their direction and some are quite big. This post explores famous names and rising stars across the price spectrum. Quintessa, Rutherford Napa Valley, Red Wine 2004 There’s … Continue reading

Posted in Bordeaux Style Blends, Cabernet Sauvignon, California, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley, Rutherford, Santa Cruz Mountains | Leave a comment

Acidic thread

Here are two wines from the Napa Valley that have a common thread of acidity and a shared and fabled character, who stunned the world at the Judgement of Paris. Grgich Hills, Napa Valley, Estate Grown, Fume Blanc 2006 The … Continue reading

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Zin from the mountains to the oceans

Navarro, Mendocino, Zinfandel 2006 Jim Klein is well-know for his work with white varieties but don’t forget his Zins. There’s pure berry fruit in a light-bodied framework. P&B in Philo 14.6% $21 at the winery Navarro Joel Gott, Amador County, … Continue reading

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The expressions of Sangiovese

Rocca di Montegrossi, Chianti Classico DOCG, 2004 Screaming acidity and light body. 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo, aged in French oak for 12 months. Estate bottled in Gaiole 13.5% $22.99 at Traverso’s Valdicava, Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2003 Appropriate earthiness … Continue reading

Posted in California, Chianti Classico, Montalcino, Napa Valley, Sangiovese, Super Tuscan, Tuscany | Leave a comment