OAP Mourvedre
Jade Mountain, Contra Costa County, Evangelho Vineyard, Mourvedre 2005 There are some reductive notes in the nose to accompany the black fruit. In the mouth there's a fair amount of acidity, light body and a sense of the alcohol's warmth. The...
A pig in a poke?
Twisted PiG, California, Pinot Grigio 2006 There's almost nothing to smell and the mouth is akin to water with a little citric acid and alcohol thrown in. It's not bad in an offensive way, it's just so lacking in any redeeming way. Best salvaged...
Little one in the woods
Rancho Sisquoc, Santa Barbara County, Sylvaner 2007 There's a bit of flintiness in the nose. Sylvaner isn't typically an aromatic daredevil so that's OK. In the mouth there's a very grapy flavor, almost like a native labrusca, very hard to...
Better boxes
Wine Cube, California, Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 It's definitely easier to maintain one's self-delusional status by not talking about or tasting or drinking wine from a box. Yet we have to speak out when the wine is serviceable and the carbon...
Last train to Clarksburg
Bogle, California, Chenin Blanc 2005 This back vintage was lingering in the cellar. There's a sense of candied tropical fruits, roundness in the palate augmented by a touch of RS and braced by an appropriate amount of acidity. It's all stainless...
Bring on the sawmill
J. Keverson, Mendocino County, Janes Vineyard, Sangiovese 2005 If you like your New World Sangiovese heavy on the oak, this is your wine. There's loads of sweet-oaky essence all over this supple wine. The moderate acidity will feel a disappointment...
Going the distance
Gunderloch, Rheinhessen, Jean-Baptiste, Riesling, Kabinett QmP 2002 This wine goes on after 6 years since the harvest, despite evidence of leaking and a then newish screwcap seal that appears to not have been perfect. There are notes of lanolin and...
The diversity that is sparkling wine
J, Russian River Valley, cuvee 20 nv Clean, fresh, fruit, tasted at the winery in May. This wine has the zip of fresh green apples. The base wine is from a recent vintage with 25% oak-aged reserves adding to the final blend. The wine is aged for 3...
Pinot AVSBNSG
Husch, Anderson Valley, Pinot Noir 2006 Cherries and earth in a light-bodied package - a little rustic and a touch bitter. Aged for 9 months in French oak. P&B in Philo 13.9% $22.99 at Traverso's Husch Navarro, Anderson Valley Mendocino,...
Charming Chardonnay
Charles Creek, Napa County Carneros, Chardonnay, Por Favor 2006 There's minerality and a touch of cheese in the nose and a bracing taste of stone fruits with some creaminess in the mouth. This Chardonnay is fermented in stainless and aged in...