Lagrein
Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige, Gries, Lagrein, Riserva DOC 2004 This is still a baby with ample structure and notes of tar and earth. There's a sense in which this reminds me of a young and reductive Northern Rhone Syrah. Let this one sit for 5 years...
Barbolini Lambrusco Seco
Barbolini, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, Lancillotto, Frizzante, Secco nv There's a delightful fresh grapy character in the nose. In the mouth there is lively black fruit and a sense of the skins, the tannin showing itself. Serve this along...
Going east in Italy
Bastianich, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Tocai Friulano DOC 2006 Herbaceous with a sense of canned vegetables, lowish in acidity with a creamy character - disappointingly low in concentration. Estate bottled in Cividale del Fruili 13% $18.00 at...
Piemonte specialty
Banfi, Rosa Regali, Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG 2007 This '07 is perfectly fresh with plenty of flowers and fresh strawberries. Serve this with fresh berries after dinner to match the sweetness. The '05 tasted one year ago was sweet and with a bit of a...
Wet your appetite
Cinzano, Vermouth Rosso nv This has proved to be a good value vermouth, not with the intensity of those of Carpano or Quady, but the price is right when you're on a budget; it's also more widely available. You could pick this up in most...
Chenin shines
Leo Steen Dry Creek Valley Saini Farms Chenin Blanc 2007 This wine was excellent in '06 and even better this time around. There is the mineral nerve that we associate with Savennieres and the ripeness of fruit that we associate with California...
Tasty treats in the Russian River
Dutton Estate Every Friday through the end of September and most of October, Cynthia Newcomb at the Dutton Estate is creating a special dish to pair with one of the wines on offer in the tasting room. When I visited recently, she dazzled the guests...
A honeymooner
Stone Hill, Hermann, Estate Bottled, Norton 2005 The nose features the smells of black fruit, compost, tar, cinamon and floral notes like violets. There's equally a vast medley of flavors on the palate with plenty of backbone. The tannin and...
On your mark…
Marques de Caceres, Rioja, Reserva DOC 2000 The house style is soft and oaky with an appropriate acidic frame. The 2000 at this stage, 8 years on smells delightful; there's sweet vanilla, earth and some stewed, evolving fruit and veg. The acid...
Foghorn’s favourite Chardonnay
Hahn, Monterey, Chardonnay 2006 The smell of fresh oak is alive in the glass with some tropical fruit in the background. There's oak to chew on in your mouth along with the flavors of butterscotch and caramel and a viscous impression that is...