Star quality

Elio Altare, Dolcetto d’Alba DOC 2006 The density of this wine is of the inky variety. There’s tar and a sense of the forest in the nose. The mouth is amazing in that the tannin is there yet fully ripe, wrapping itself around a dense core of black fruit...

Charge!

La Spinetta, Barbaresco DOCG, Vigneto Starderi 2004 The previous vintage was a concentrated, oaky heavyweight, still in its infancy when tasted in late ’07. This ’04 smells of sweet oak and New World fruit. Again we see a tannic monster that is caressed by...