Ever fashionable, it begins with a V

Domaine de Triennes, Vin de Pays du Var, Sainte Fleur, Viognier 2006 The ’05 was a bit alcoholic, though that is often tolerated in Viognier. This bottle, the ’06 has some sense of that in the mouth but more than enough vivacious fruit to offset it. The...

A sense of citrus

Lillet, White nv There’s a beautiful sense of citrus peel – very aromatic with alcohol in the background. It’s sweet but not too much so. Serve it over a few ice cubes. This latest bottling in 2010 is vibrantly fresh and the best I’ve ever...

Earthiness embraced

Domaine Monpertuis, Vin de Pays du Gard, Vignoble de la Ramiere, Cuvee Counoise 2005 Unfortunately this wine has quite a bit of brett and lots of astringency and is just too rustic for many. 13% $9.99 at Bottle Barn

Almost to Spain

Les Clos de Paulilles, Banyuls Rimage 2005 There are stewed fruits and raisins to smell while the mouth is a supple presentation of evolving fruit and moderate sweetness that is crying out for dark chocolate. The grapes are 100% Grenache Noir. Rimage derives from the...

Their regional wine

Robert Groffier, Bourgogne, “Pinot Noir” 2005 The house style does not oppose earthiness and the bit of brett I picked up earlier in the spring is a bit more in the horse blanket zone now. In the mouth the earthiness comes through with tart cherries and a...

Beau

Louis Jadot, Beaujolais-Villages 2007 Clean berry and cherry fruit with a little minerality. The mouth is fruity with a light body, characteristic acidity and just a hint of tannic greenness – an easy picnic quaff. Eleve et mis at 71570 in France (It’s got...