Adriatic leaning

ColleStafano, Verdicchio di Matelica DOC 2007 Minerality and stones fruits come out in the nose. The mouth is refreshing and fruity like peaches with the acidity of a lemon – nice. The grapes are organically grown. Estate bottled in Castelraimondo 13% $15.99 at...

Ode to Rome

Fontana Candida, Frascati DOC, Superiore, Secco 2006 There’s a light sense of herbs and flowers in the nose and melons after about 15 minutes. The mouth is rather light on flavor and acidity with a bit of heat. Bottled in Monteporzio Catone 12.5% $7.69 at Bottle...

Golden wine

Selvapiana, Vin Santo del Chianti Rufina DOC 2001 Raisins and a spiritous character in the nose. The mouth features caramel and toffee and a subtle sweetness that would make it best consumed by itself after dinner in the cold of winter in front of that roaring fire....

Spiny wine

Sergio Mottura, Orvieto DOC 2006 There are fresh tropical fruits and garden herbs in the nose. The mouth is rather broad with moderate acidity and a little warmth and a bit of astringent grip – a little disappointing. The grapes, Procanico, Verdello and...

Lagrein

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige, Gries, Lagrein, Riserva DOC 2004 This is still a baby with ample structure and notes of tar and earth. There’s a sense in which this reminds me of a young and reductive Northern Rhone Syrah. Let this one sit for 5 years or pair with...