Haut-Colombier Bordeaux Clairet 2009

Chateau Haut-Colombier, Bordeaux Clairet 2009 This is a deeply-colored rose, approaching what you see in some Pinot Noir and Sangiovese. In the nose the fruit shines through with some earthy notes as well. In the mouth it is fruity and structured, in the way that you find in many European rose, with a sense of tannic underpinning and alcohol in the background.

During our last trip to France I had an opportunity to taste rose produced locally in Bordeaux. It is nice to have an opportunity to taste some back home in California, provoking fond memories of the trip.

Often rose is overshadowed by its more famous red brothers and sisters, whether it be in the lands famous for Pinot Noir, Sangiovese or a plethora of other grapes. Yet in the summer rose is a natural choice, especially when the sun is shining during a walk before dinner.

Mis en bouteille au chateau par Olivier et Emmanuel Chety, Vignerons a Cars 13% $10 suggested US retail, a media sample Chateau Haut-Colombier

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Oberon Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Oberon, Napa Valley, Sauvignon Blanc 2009 This wine is the essence of grapefruit, from the aroma to the flavors in the mouth. The acidity is crisp, making this wine quite zippy and refreshing.

The grapes are all Sauvignon Blanc and are sourced from the Oso Vineyard in the warmer Pope Valley and the Milliken Vineyard in the cooler, southern stretch of the Napa Valley. In the winery there is a combination of stainless and barrel fermentation and the wine is bottled under a screwcap closure.

Winemaker Tony Coltrin. Produced and bottled by Oberon Wines, part of the Michael Mondavi Family of Wines in Napa 13.5% $14.99 suggested US retail, a media sample Oberon Wines

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Langtry Genevieve Vineyard Chardonnay 2008

Langtry Estate, Guenoc Valley, Genevieve Vineyard, Chardonnay 2008 This is a rich Chardonnay that provides a multiplex experience, to borrow from the film industry.

The nose features tropical fruit and toasty, nuttiness. In the mouth the tropical fruit is fully on display, with buttery richness and a sense of the oak. The thickness of texture makes this wine compelling while a citrussy burst of acidity provides balance. I would even suggest that this Chardonnay is decadent, enjoyable as a stand-alone glass of wine, in the way that it satisfies on many levels.

Genevieve is a 10 acre vineyard situated just east of the historic home of Lillie Langtry. A portion of the wine was fermented in French oak barrels and and some was also treated to malolactic.

The winemaker is Erik Stine, who is doing a bang-up job of bringing this winery back into the public eye.  Produced and bottled in Middletown, up above Calistoga 14.5% available for $35 at the winery, the gift of a friend in Lake County langtryestate.com

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Murhphy-Goode Minnesota Cuvee Chardonnay 2008

Murphy-Goode, Alexander Valley, Minnesota Cuvee, Chardonnay 2008 This is a richer style of Chardonnay with notes of oak, brown spices, butter and vanilla in the nose. On the palate there’s a sense of stone fruits, oak, a moderate amount of acidity, a light body and a buttery sheen.

Vinted and bottled in Geyserville 14.9% purchased for $20 at the winery

Murphy-Goode Winery

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Clarendon Hills Piggot Range Syrah 2005

Clarendon Hills, Clarendon, Piggot Range, Syrah 2005 The nose shows smoky oak and sweet black fruit. In the mouth the fruit is quite expressive and ripe, with an extremely silky texture and great length.  It’s a treat to taste a wine that has such density while at the same time being very supple.

After our meal we tasted the Syrah with chocolate brownies for dessert. The brownies accentuated the acidity of the wine and made the fruit pop in the most delicious way.

The grapes were sourced from the Piggot Range Vineyard, which was planted in the 1960s in an area adjacent to the Onkaparinga Valley. Owner and Winemaker Roman Bratasiuk. Produced in Blewitt Springs 14.5% available for a sale price of $89.00 at wine.com, this particular bottle was a gift that has been rattling around in the cellar  Clarendon Hills


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Vieux Telegraphe Telegramme 2007 and Tim Gaiser Wine Genius

Vieux Telegraphe, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Télégramme 2007 Tasted first at 11:15 on Friday morning, the nose featured cherries, strawberries, black pepper, sweet notes of vanilla and caramel as wells as the scent of the garrigue. In the mouth the wine showed medium plus structure and great length.

Tim Gaiser, Master Sommelier and Think Like a Genius Wine Master As we tasted Vieux Telegraphe’s Telegramme, Tim gave me a new window into how I process wine memories and how all of us can make those memories even stronger.

Tim asked me to be aware of and describe the pictures that came to mind. There it was, the cherry tree of my youth, in the side yard where I grew up in Pennsylvania. Then there was the black pepper, signified by a pepper mill, one that sits in our kitchen today. And of course, there is my memory of the garrigue, the scrubby bushes and herbs that dot the landscape of the southern Rhone and Provence, rosemary and more and the evocative smell.

Tim has collaborated with the Everyday Genius Institute to create a DVD and short program to enhance our ability to process the experience of wine. From my live experience with Tim, I have to say that it is not only appropriate for those on their first steps in the world of wine but also those of us who have been at it for decades. You can find it online for $69 at Amazon by searching for Think like a genius Wine Master.

I should add that we corked the bottle of Telegramme without gas and later at 8:00 p.m. that night, the sweet notes were even more obvious. In the mouth the structure still strutted with an obvious sense of the tannins and acidity but not in overwhelming way – rather just right. The length was great and I savored the wine with a New York, seasoned with freshly ground black pepper and sea salt, grilled on the barbecue on a most foggy of nights – awesome.

This is a great example of a second wine that reaches heights that other firsts don’t. It once again comes down to producer more than anything else. Those that care most deeply about their reputation make a good showing in both their top and second wines.

Mis par Brunier et fils a Bedarrides, 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre, mostly from the Plateau de la Crau from vines averaging 25 years old 14.5% $29.99 to $39.99 at a variety of retailers across the country, a sample provided by the trade.

Vieux Telegraphe

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Wildhurst Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Wildhurst, Lake County, Reserve, Sauvignon Blanc 2009 The nose features plenty of freshly mown grass and grapefruit – quite classic. In the mouth the citrus flavors shine in the most zippy way possible – nice and refreshing.

I  had a chance to try a bottle on Monday night and the crisp acidity made it the perfect first wine with light nibbles on what was a warm Lake County evening. This particular bottle that I’m tasting tonight was the gift of a friend and I’m looking forward to pairing it with some tangy goat cheese from Cypress Grove.

There’s no reason why we can’t take the classic combo of Sancerre and Crotin de Chavignol and recreate it with the local produce of northern California.

Proprietor Myron Holdenried and winemaker Mark Burch. Produced and bottled in Kelseyville 13.8% The previous vintage is currently available at the winery for $12 so I would imagine that this new vintage would be under $15 – good wine and a good price. It’s also bottled under a screwcap closure to ensure freshness.

Wildhurst

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Domaine Richaud L’Ebrescade 2004

Domaine Richaud, Cairanne Cotes du Rhone Villages, L’Ebrescade 2004 The nose features sweet black fruit, a bit of raisins, a light meaty character and a sense of the garrigue. In the mouth it is smooth and succulent, rich, with some viscosity, lots of fruit that is moving away from its original, more primary character to something more complex with 6 years of evolution since the harvest.

This is a wine that is dense yet whose structure has simmered down to be enjoyed now. So while you will sense the tannins you will not be overwhelmed by them – delicious. I’m so glad that I bought a steak for dinner tonight – this is going to be a heavenly meal.

L’Ebrescade is the name for Marcel Richaud’s top blend from the appellation, featuring fruit from vines with an average age of 45 years. Mis en bouteille a Cairanne, this wine is not shy of alcohol at 15.5%. I don’t know what I paid for this when I purchased it at K&L some years ago but it is archived online there at a sale price of $29.99 and was previously sold for $36.99.

I have to thank my good friend Philippe Briot for arranging the appointment for me at Domaine Richaud some years ago. The domaine’s wines prove the adage that it is producer that matters most when selecting a wine.

Posted in Cairanne, Cotes du Rhone, Cotes du Rhone Villages, France, Grenache, Rhône | Tagged | 2 Comments

Windsor Blanc de Noir 2006

Windsor Vineyards, North Coast Champagne, Private Reserve Series, Blanc de Noir 2006 This is a dry and fruit-forward sparkling. Each sip has a vivid sense of blackberries, blueberries and more – nice.

Produced and bottled in Lower Lake 12.5% $25 for the current vintage ’07 at the winery, a gift from a friend that has been lying in wait in the cellar.

Windsor Vineyards


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Handley Dry Creek Chardonnay 2007

Handley, Dry Creek Valley, Handley Vineyard, Chardonnay 2007 The nose features tropical fruit and subtle oak in the background while the mouth shows us a light and fresh version of Chardonnay, fruity with roundness – very nice.

The estate is best known for its Anderson Valley wines yet the family has long owned vineyards in Dry Creek where they grow Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Visit them in the Anderson Valley and you can taste the lot from both counties.

Most of the wine was fermented and aged in French oak while approximately half went through malolactic. Winemaker Milla Handley. Produced and bottled in Philo 14.5% available for $20 at the winery, the gift of a friend Handley

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Pierre Gimonnet Gastronome 2004

Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, Champagne, Premier Cru, Gastronome, Blanc de Blancs, Brut 2004 This wine is the epitome of green apples in a glass, bracing and wonderful. This profile is emblematic of the house style and the length is amazing.

Elabore in Cuis, 12% purchased for $49.99 at Bottle Barn

Gimonnet

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Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition Disgorged 2009

Egly-Ouriet, Champagne, Grand Cru, Brut Tradition nv The nose features biscuits and apples, apples that are fresh and those baked in an apple tart. In the mouth this bubbly is freshly fruity, embracing the taste of apples across the spectrum, green, red and yellow – elegant and very nice.

The grapes are sourced from vines from 35-40 years old in Ambonnay, Bouzy and Verzenay, 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. Approximately 30% reserve wines were incorporated before the secondary fermenation. The wine spent 40 months on the lees and was disgorged in November of 2009. Crafted by Michel Egly in Ambonnay 12.5% purchased for $55.99 at Bottle Barn

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Roederer Estate Extra Dry

Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley, Estate Bottled, Extra Dry nv The nose displays stone fruits, apples and citrus with a little puff pastry. In the mouth you’ll find the essence of green apples and citrus with a balancing shot of sweetness.

As many of you know, I love the electric acidity associated with Roederer’s house style. In this wine you see how dosage provides balance, rather than overt sweetness, enhancing the experience of the wine and tempering its austerity.

The grapes behind this wine are 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir. The dosage is a little higher than the Brut MV but I don’t know the precise number. Produced and bottled in Philo 12% purchased at the winery where it is available for $22.

This wine does not make it out into the marketplace. It was originally created in small quantities for the White House, back in the Reagan era, I believe. Today they are only making about 400 cases of this bubbly annually. Contact the winery or pick up a bottle the next time you visit Roederer in the bucolic Anderson Valley.

Roederer Estate

Posted in California, Chardonnay, Mendocino County, Pinot Noir, Sparkling Dry | Tagged | Leave a comment

Cascina Castle’t Moscato d’Asti 2008

Cascina Castle’t, Moscato d’Asti 2008 This wine is delightful in its expression of orange blossoms with an added complexity from the extra year in the bottle – creamy and delicious. Estate bottled by Maria Borio in Costigliole d’Asti 5.5% purchased for $14.99 at Traverso’s Cascina Castlet

Posted in Italy, Muscat, Piemonte, Sparkling sweet | Tagged | 2 Comments

Domaine Carneros Le Reve 2004

Domaine Carneros, Carneros, Brut, Blanc de Blancs, Le Reve 2004 As in the past, the nose exhibits the sweetest of fruits and flowers. In the mouth the theme continues with ripe stone fruits, a creamy texture and a dosage that amplifies the fruitiness – always a hit.

The grapes are Chardonnay with the possibility of some Pinot Blanc and the wine was aged for 6 years, before release. Estate grown, produced and bottled in Napa 12% purchased for $60.99 at Bottle Barn.

Domaine Carneros

Posted in California, Carneros, Chardonnay, Sparkling Dry | Tagged | 3 Comments

Egly-Ouriet Champagne Pinot Meunier disgorged August 09

Egly-Ouriet, Champagne Premier Cru, Les Vignes de Vrigny, Brut nv disgorged August 2009 The nose features a veritable bread basket of smells from the boulangerie, buttered biscuits, freshly baked croissants and more great memories of France.

In the mouth the flavors are quite complex, with flavors of tart cherry and cranberry, vibrant acidity and a sense where every millimeter of the palate is lit up with flavor – a wine with great finesse that goes on and on.

The grapes are all Pinot Meunier from le Terroir de Vrigny. The bottle tasted today, in July 2010, was aged for 37 months on the lees and disgorged in August ’09. Elabore a Ambonnay 12.5% previously $52.49 and purchased in July 2010 for $44.99 at Bottle Barn

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Scharffenberger Brut Rose

Scharffenberger, Mendocino County, Brut Rose, Sparkling Wine nv This is a sparkler that features lively fruit, vivid strawberries and raspberry punch, with an accent of floral notes. In the mouth the fruit carries on with a creamy character, a sense of vanilla, a rounded wine that slips down easily – very nice.

The grapes behind this wine are 54% Pinot Noir and 46%   Chardonnay. Most of the base wine underwent malolactic. 4.5% Pinot Noir gives the color, following the practice that is traditional in Champagne, where a bit of red wine creates the pink hue rather than an earlier maceration of black grapes.

This is the first Rose that Scharffenberger has produced in over 10 years. The dosage is 10 grams per litre. Produced and bottled in Philo 12% purchased for $19.49 at Bottle Barn Scharffenberger

Posted in California, Chardonnay, Mendocino County, Pinot Noir, Sparkling Dry | Tagged | 1 Comment

Chateau Suduiraut 2005

Chateau Suduiraut, Sauternes 1er Cru 2005 The nose features lots of honey, a bit of straw, tropical fruit notes and appropriate volatility. In the mouth it is thick and rich, lemony, tempered by acidity and reminiscent of a spoonful of creme caramel – yum.

This is one of the region’s top estates. 92 hectares are planted in clay and sandy soil to 90% Semillon and 10% SB, Recolte et mis en bouteilles a Preignac 13.5% purchased for $59.99 at the Wine Club in San Francisco Suduiraut

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Clos Du Val Stags Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Clos Du Val, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District, Estate Bottled, Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 The nose features a complex mix of black fruit, chocolate and earthiness. In the mouth it is quite dense and structured.

At this point it is just a baby but a long sleep in the cellar will certainly reward the more patient among you. The balance is there and that is what we look for in a candidate for aging – very nice.

The grapes behind this wine include 14% Merlot. The wine was aged for 24 months in French oak, 50% of which was new. Winemaker John Clews. Produced and bottled in Napa 13.5% suggested US retail $70 a media sample

Clos Du Val

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District | Tagged | 1 Comment

Emblem Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

Emblem, Napa Valley, Rutherford, Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 The sense of Cassis leaps out of the glass when you pour this wine – the fruit character ripe and concentrated. In the mouth the concentration of fruit continues, on a structured frame. The wine is a little chewy and like with the Oso Vineyard Cabernet, the acidity carries the flavor a long way – very nice.

The grapes, all Cabernet Sauvignon, were sourced from a vineyard planted on the alluvial fan of the Vaca Range. The wine was aged in French oak for 22 months.

Produced and bottled by the Michael Mondavi Family, Folio Winemakers Studio in Napa 14.3% $50 suggested US retail, a media sample Emblem Wines

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Small Vines Russian River Pinot Noir 2008

Small Vines, Russian River Valley, Pinot Noir 2008 This wine is a star. In the nose the fruit has a liqueur-like character, showing off its ripeness. In the mouth there is again that straddling of the Old and New Worlds that Small Vines pulls off vintage after vintage. The structure is there yet the fruit is opulent. The acidity is again a hallmark, taking the flavors in your mouth for a long and pleasurable ride.

The grapes were all organically farmed by Paul and the team at Small Vines.The wine spent 15 months in oak, 39% of which was new – only 375 cases produced. Proprietors Paul and Kathryn Sloan. P&B in Santa Rosa 14.5% available for $50 at the winery, a media sample Small Vines

Posted in California, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County | Tagged | 1 Comment

Bourgogne Rouge 2007

Domaine G. Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny 2007 Give this some air to allow the fruit to emerge. Then there’s a mix of cherries, moist black earth in the garden and brown spices. In the mouth this is just a baby, with plenty of structure and bright cherry fruit.

The Chambolle-Musignys crafted by Christophe Roumier are the paradigm for the appellation and one shouldn’t pass up the affordable village wine.  Mis en bouteille in Chambolle 13% purchased for $69.99 at the Wine Club Domaine G. Roumier

Domaine de Montille, Beaune, 1er Cru, Les Greves 2007 This wine is also a bit inward when first opened so do give it some air. In the mouth the fruit is quite expressive in a structured format, with chewiness and long acidity. Mis en bouteille au domaine a Volnay 13% purchased for $63.99 at K&L

Posted in Beaune, Burgundy, Chambolle-Musigny, France, Pinot Noir | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Toulouse Pinot Noir 2007

Toulouse Vineyards, Anderson Valley, Estate, Pinot Noir 2007 In the nose there is a sense of the forest floor and toasty, smoky oak. In the mouth it shows as an elegant style of Pinot Noir, very supple and approachable. We tasted a few weekends ago at the winery and a new bottle tonight in San Francisco with the UC class.

The wine was aged for 12 months in French oak. Estate grown, produced and bottled in Philo 14.8% purchased recently at the winery where it was selling for $42, though it may now be sold out.

Toulouse Vineyards

Posted in Anderson Valley, California, Mendocino County, Pinot Noir | Tagged | Leave a comment

Dr. Loosen Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese 2008

Dr. Loosen, Mosel, Urziger, Wurzgarten, Riesling, Spatlese 2008 Give this some air to blow off a little reductive character and then limes, peaches and nectarines will come through. In the mouth you’ll find the fruit has a candied character, sweet yet wonderfully tart at the same time – delicious. Loosen’s oldest vines are grown in the spice garden’s red volcanic soil; some of the vines as old as 120 years. Erzeugerabfullung in Bernkastel 7.5% purchased for $23.99 at Bottle Barn

Dr. Loosen

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William Fevre Chablis Fourchaume 2008

William Fevre, Chablis Premier Cru, Fourchaume 2008 In the nose you’ll find the smell of bread dough and butter with a healthy whiff of stone fruits. In the mouth the concentration of fruit is evident, with buttery richness adding a sheen of slippery texture and ample green apple-like flavor and acidity for balance.

I have to say that the Fevre wines have been quite delicious across the board. During the last 2 trips to Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne we’ve had an opportunity to explore the depth of the estate’s wines while in Chablis.  At the same time we’ve been treated to wider distribution of the wines here at home in California.

100% of the wine went through ML and somewhere between 40% to 60% of the wine was aged for almost 6 months in barrels of 4-5 years in age. Produced and bottled in Chablis 12.5% purchased for $32.59 at Bottle Barn Fevre

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Lenz Moser Heuriger Gruner Veltliner 2009

Lenz Moser, Niederosterreich, Heuriger, Trocken, Gruner Veltliner 2009 The nose sports grapefruit and lemongrass, a nice combination of citrus and herbs that is complemented by floral notes. In the mouth it is crisp and refreshing without being austere – a nice value in a super-size bottle!

Abfuller Weinkellerei Lenz Moser in Rohrendorfbei Krems 12% purchased at Bottle Barn, $7.99 for a one litre bottle.

Lenz Moser


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Quady Elysium 2006

Quady, California, Elysium, Black Muscat 2006 The nose features a grapy/berry expression, a bit liquer-like. In the mouth it is light-bodied and sweet, reminiscent of fresh raspberries and grape jelly – nice.

Winemaker Michael Blaylock. P&B in Madera, L0702, 15% $21 at the winery, a gift to the class from the SFCWC Quady

Posted in California, Fortified dessert, Muscat | Tagged | 1 Comment

Naia Verdejo 2008

Naia, Rueda, Verdejo 2008 Quite simply, this wine is delightfully refreshing, emphasizing fresh fruit and acidity. This is perhaps the 3rd or 4th vintage of the Naia Verdejo that I’ve tasted and the consistency is a hallmark – very nice. I’m only sorry that I haven’t written it up sooner.

The grapes behind this wine are 100% Verdejo. Bottled in Valladolid 13% purchased for $15 at the Wine Emporium in Sebastopol.

Posted in Rueda, Spain, Verdejo | Leave a comment

Emblem Oso Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

Emblem, Napa Valley, Oso Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 This is very refined Cabernet. The nose sports the ripeness of Cassis with the richness of vanilla and chocolate. In the mouth the edges are all polished, a ripe wine yet one whose structure is lurking in the background, supportive but not overbearing.

The food-friendly nature of this wine comes from its acidity, carrying the Cassis and other flavors for a long time after the wine has been swallowed – very nice.

The grapes, all Cabernet Sauvignon, were sourced from the Mondavi family’s Oso Vineyard. The vineyard is planted on terraced slopes sited between Sugarloaf and Howell Mountains. 45% of the oak for maturation was new, all of it French, and the wine aged there for 22 months.

Produced and bottled by the Michael Mondavi Family, Folio Winemakers Studio in Napa 13.7% $50 suggested US retail, a media sample Emblem Wines

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Saintsbury Chardonnay 2008

Saintsbury, Carneros, Chardonnay 2008 The nose features hazelnuts and tropical fruit in ample supply. In the mouth viscosity is matched by acidity, creating a balanced wine that showcases stone fruits like peaches and apricots and tropical fruits like pineapple and papaya, all daubed with buttery richness. The acidity carries the flavors a long way – very nice.

I had an informative visit to the winery over 10 years ago and it’s great to see the wines are still on form. This is a house that has had a strong focus on the Carneros and in particular, still wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The wine was barrel fermented, put through full malolactic and aged in French oak barrels for 8 months, 20% of which were new. Produced and bottled in Sonoma 13.5% $19.99 at the winery, a media sample

Saintsbury

Posted in California, Carneros, Chardonnay | Tagged | 1 Comment