Cote de Beaune

Joseph Drouhin, Volnay 2005 The nose is dominated by brambles, stemminess and leaves. The fruit picks up in the mouth with ample acidity. There are ripe tannins which contribute firmness while being fairly supple by Burgundy standards. Mis by Drouhin, negociant eleveur a Beaune 13% $37.49 at Bottle Barn Drouhin

Nicolas Potel, Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru, Les Hauts Jarrons 2005 In November the nose was very sweet smelling of brown spices, spicy flowers, vanilla and licorice. The mouth was alive with fruit and a moderate amount of acidity making it quite accessible.  In February ’09, it’s gone into an awkward phase, toasty and earthy, with the fruit there but hidden in a little deeper and the acidity is dominating; just give it some more time. Vinifié, élevé et mis a Nuits-Saints-Georges 13% $39.99 at the Wine Club Nicolas Potel
Pierre Morey, Monthelie 2004 The brett really dominates the nose of this wine. The mouth has lots of tart cherry fruit but again the brett is the dominant force. This isn’t in keeping with the amazing wines I’ve had from Morey in the past.
There can be variation in the bloom of brett across bottles so it could be this is a one-off bad one. After all, to paraphrase the French, there are only great bottles. Giving this esteemed producer the benefit of the doubt, I risked another $35. Unfortunately, this bottle proved to be another ‘brett bomb’. This is truly an unecessary shame. I feel badly writing this as I was treated with great kindness by M. Morey during a visit to Burgundy some years ago. Yet how can he release such a wine bearing his name? I think this needs to be talked about in the light of day. Mis a Meursault 12.5% $34.99 at Traverso’s Pierre Morey

About RJ

Ray Johnson is the Executive Director of the Wine Business Institute at Sonoma State University. He writes about food and wine, his travels and the business of wine. He makes his home in Sonoma County, California.
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