Ode to Rome

Fontana Candida, Frascati DOC, Superiore, Secco 2006 There’s a light sense of herbs and flowers in the nose and melons after about 15 minutes. The mouth is rather light on flavor and acidity with a bit of heat. Bottled in Monteporzio Catone 12.5% $7.69 at Bottle Barn Fontana Candida

Castel de Paolis, Frascati DOC Superiore 2005 The last time I tasted this vintage, over a year ago, it was very crisp and clean and less expensive by a third. Today in the fall of 2008, the fruit is falling out of the nose but there’s still great concentration of flavor in the mouth – a sense of candied fruit that goes on a long time. All organically grown grapes. P&B in Grottaferrata 13% $35 (up from $25) at Traverso’s Castel de Paolis

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