Before moving to California, I worked in a flash French restaurant back in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. This was the mid-eighties and all of the staff were died in the wool Francophiles, disdaining New World wine while seldom ever tasting it.
Local wine critic Peter Machamer organized a New World vs. Old World tasting challenge at our restaurant and we sold out the house. The race was between one of Bordeaux’s classified growths (was it Talbot or Gruaud Larose? – I can’t locate my tasting notes but I have them, somewhere in the office) and an upstart winery from, God forbid, California’s Alexander Valley.
Well nobody on the staff nor most of the regular customers expected much from the newbie – who could when they were lacking the thousands of years of experience of their French counterparts. Yet we soldiered on with the tasting and low and behold, the upstart stole the show. None of us expected the quality and we certainly didn’t expect the wines to work with haute cuisine.
That upstart was Jordan Winery in Healdsburg, California and the ‘judgment of Pittsburgh’ opened my prejudiced eyes to the treasures of California sunshine.
Over 20 years later, I had the opportunity to revisit the wines of Jordan during an in-depth tasting and lunch this weekend. I found that the wines are still on form, showing well alone but more importantly on the table. During lunch, John Jordan reiterated the thought, saying “wine is not a solo act; our feeling is that it should be enjoyed at the table.”
Jordan, Russian River Valley, Chardonnay 2008 The nose features tropical fruit, pears, toasty oak and butter. In the mouth you find a rich expression of Chardonnay with life in the glass, the dazzle of a green apple’s acidity balancing a bit of luxurious butter 13.5% $29 at the winery, scheduled for release on May 1.
Jordan, Sonoma County, Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 The nose features raisins and sweet spiciness, sandalwood and cinnamon. The palate shows vibrant cherry and cassis, youthful fruit as well as raisins on a velvety texture. This wine has matured gracefully and achieved that great illusion of sweetness that dry red wines sometimes reach – absolutely delicious. 12.8% available at the winery for $89.
Check out the bottle – 99 Cabernet
Visit the winery: Jordan Winery
I remember that tasting. It was Gruaud Larose. Jordan was very new then.
Peter – you have a great memory! Best regards, RJ