Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige, Gries, Lagrein, Riserva DOC 2004 This is still a baby with ample structure and notes of tar and earth. There’s a sense in which this reminds me of a young and reductive Northern Rhone Syrah. Let this one sit for 5 years or pair with salame and cheddar for dinner this week. The Gries vineyard is near Bolzano at 750 ft elevation. Bottled in Terlano 13% $27.99 at Traverso’s Terlano