Start with an Aperitif

Written by Ray Johnson

Kir
This classic French aperitif was orginally made with the austere Aligote and the sweet Cassis, both from Burgundy. With the least expensive Bourgogne Aligote selling for $11 in San Francisco, however, it makes no sense to be a traditionalist. Rather, you might take the easy and affordable path chosen by most restaurants – using the plonk at hand.

Our plonk du jour is the Glen Ellen Pinot Grigio. Plonk works fine, as long as it is acidic. Thus you must be careful of some jug whites that have a noticeable degree of sweetness. This aperitif requires acidic white wine, like one expects from Aligote.

I also have to emphasize purchasing a good bottle of cassis as the inferior bottles are simply sweet and alcoholic. The Vedrenne works because there is the flavor of the fruit as well as the sweetness. Despite its expense, you only use a smidgeon with each glass.

Pour a bit of the cassis into a glass and add the white wine. The proportion is truly up to you, as you can make the concoction as sweet as you like. Here are the ingredients that we’re pouring in today’s class:

Glen Ellen California Reserve Pinot Grigio 2007
Last year I used the 2006 of this wine and before that the ’05. While it is no doubt simple, it is appropriately loaded with acidity. And it’s cheap. Vinted and Bottle no where near Glen Ellen, in Ripon, CA 12% $3.59 at Bottle Barn

Vedrenne Creme de Cassis de Nuits St. Georges ‘Supercassis’
Made from black currants macerated in alcohol and then sweetened. Produced in Nuits St. Georges in Burgundy 20% $25.95 at Traverso’s Vedrenne

In the winter of 2008, I found that one of my favorite bottles of Cassis was back in stock at Bottle Barn. Though the price has risen by a third, it is still an outstanding value in quality Cassis:

Maison de Lamartine Creme de Cassis de Bourgogne
All Burgundian blackcurrants are macerated in neutral spirit for 1-6 months before the sugar addition. Produced in Charnay-les-Macon at the birthplace of Alphonse de Lamartine. 15% up $3.50 since last year to $19.99 at Bottle Barn.

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