Heitz Cellar, Napa Valley, Grignolino Port 2004 It’s like cranberries marinated in brandy when you lift the glass. In the mouth it is light-bodied for a Port-style wine with a little acidic zing, sweetness and an alcoholic kick. This has been a consistent good value in California’s take on Port. P&B in St. Helena, 18.5% [...]

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Williams Selyem, Sonoma Coast, Pinot Noir 2006 There’s a sweet medley of cherry, berry and vanilla notes in the nose. In the mouth the wine is pure elegance. I consistently see this thread in Bob Cabral’s wines, what the French often look for in expressing Pinot character without amping it up over the top - [...]

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DuNah, Russian River Valley, DuNah Estate Vineyard, Pinot Noir 2006 Toastiness and toffee leap out of the glass with a sense of earthiness and crushed leaves. The mouth is deeply concentrated with cherry fruit and toffee with a very supple feel and richness. P&B in Sebastopol 14.2% $54 at Traverso’s DuNah
DuMol, Green Valley Sonoma County, [...]

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Balletto, Russian River Valley, Estate Bottled, Pinot Noir 2007 There is candied cherry fruit in the nose and a creaminess to the mouthfeel. The fruit really comes through in the palate as well. P&B by Laguna Oaks Vineyards & Winery in Santa Rosa 13.7% $10.99 at Bottle Barn Balletto

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Foxen, Santa Ynez Valley, Toasted Rope, Syrah 2006 There are raisins and freshly stewed fruits in the nose, like the smells you get when making a warm compote in the winter. The mouth is extremely supple and sweet appearing, with cocoa and brown spices. 85% Syrah and 15% Viognier. P&B in Santa Maria 15.8% $33.49 [...]

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Tablas Creek Vineyard, Paso Robles, Esprit de Beaucastel 2005 The brett is dominating the nose and while it works for this style of wine, it will put off some looking for a cleaner approach in the New World. The gaminess carries through in the mouth. The tannins are ripe and there to frame this very [...]

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Zaca Mesa, Santa Ynez Valley, Estate Grown and Bottled, Viognier 2007 This wine is peaches on steroids all the way through with a rich, very viscous mouthfeel that emphasizes fruit rather than oak or butter, as is seen in some of the heavier-handed approaches to this variety. And there is no hint of the whopping [...]

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Andre Brunel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Les Cailloux 2005 The nose sports smoke and a healthy but appropriate dose of brett for this wine, accentuating a meatiness. The earthiness repeats in the mouth with an explosion of red fruits. The structure provides the frame around these flavors and a chance to improve over the next decade. I just [...]

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Give this wine some time to blow off the stink. Then you can see the cherries, cola and earthy forest floor notes in the nose. There are gamey flavors in the mouth, with the acidity you’d expect and a rather light-body and light to moderate concentration. This is an old vine selection of Pinot Noir, [...]

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Verget, Macon Villages, “Grand Elevage” 2006 There’s a mix of minerality and doughy notes in the nose while the mouth is steely with a bit of slipperiness coating the tongue, adding richness to the austerity. From Jean-Marie Guffen, whose Chardonnays have been a consistent spot-on value in notes back to the 2003 vintage. Vinifie et [...]

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Stone Hill, Missouri, Port 2004 The prunes and sweet Linzer torte stand out in the nose. In the mouth there is the alcohol and tannic edge of vintage Port from the Duoro as well as chocolate and vanilla. This was a big hit with chocolate covered raisins. The grape that makes this wine is Norton. [...]

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Lazy Creek, Anderson Valley, Rose of Pinot Noir 2007 This wine has the zippy acidity vibrance of the rose from County Line with a depth of flavor, a density that fills out the wine on the palate - great. The wine was aged sur lie in neutral French oak. Proprietors Josh and Mary Beth Chandler. [...]

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Kanzler, Sonoma Coast, Pinot Noir 2007 This is a barrel sample from the family’s vineyard out in what is called the Sebastopol Hills, about 3 miles west of town. While dense, the wine is very polished with a slather of new oak that will integrate with time down the road. ‘07 is the 4th release [...]

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Small Vines, Sonoma Coast, Pinot Noir 2006 Like the Russian River bottling, this Pinot is packed with flavor. There’s a backbone of acidity to keep this wine going a long time in your mouth and a long time in your cellar - excellent.The source of the fruit is the MK Vineyard above Occidental. The wine [...]

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James David, Paso Robles, Penman Springs Vineyard, Muscat Blanc 2007 There’s a great variety of floral notes, from the sweet ones like honesuckle to roses and spicey numbers. The mouth is light-bodied and citrusy with a real sense of eating those flowers - a nice dry aperitif. 14.4% $18 at the winery

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Clos LaChance, Central Coast, Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Sourced exclusively from the winery’s vineyard in San Martin. You knew them first from the days in Saratoga 14.5% $30 at the winery LaChance

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Bink, Yorkville Highlands, Weir Vineyard, Pinot Noir 2005 The nose is a bit closed right now but the mouth is vibrantly fruitly in a very supple framework. Winemaker Debbie Schatzlein 14.5% $40 at the winery, just 300 cases Bink

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