Monthly Archives: June 2008

Two sides of the county line

Mumm Napa Napa Valley Devaux Ranch Methode Traditionnelle 2002 There’s lots of citrus with a hint of the zest and a touch of alcohol. The grapes are Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and the wine was aged 3 years on the … Continue reading

Posted in California, Carneros, Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Sparkling Dry | Leave a comment

Sparkling in the pink

Domaine Chandon, Sonoma County 62%, Napa County 38%, etoile, Rose nv The house style is one of forward fruit and a soft profile. Likewise with this wine in a copper color and an added zip of acidity. The fruit source … Continue reading

Posted in California, Chardonnay, Green Valley, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, Sparkling Dry | Leave a comment

Old and new

Traditional appellation wine versus a modern blend from Piemonte. Vietti, Barolo DOCG, Castiglione 2004 In June of ’08 I noted brown spices and licorice on a very tannic frame that is balanced by acidity and extract. In April of ’09, … Continue reading

Posted in Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Italy, Merlot, Nebbiolo, Piemonte, Pinot Noir | Leave a comment

Island wine from Portugal

Cossart Gordon Madeira 5 Years Old Malmsey nv This is a rich style of Madeira from the Malvasia grape, known as Malmsey. The nose features toffee and caramel with a healthy dose of toasted nuts. In the mouth, you taste … Continue reading

Posted in Fortified dessert, Madeira, Malvasia, Portugal | Leave a comment

Riesling and Gewurztraminer differentiated

Though often talked about in the same breath, these two grapes are quite dissimiliar. Esterlina Cole Ranch Dry Riesling 2006 Concentrated stone fruit wrapped in acidity – long, great, delicious. P&B in Healdsburg 13.8% $14.99 at Bottle Barn Esterlina Elena … Continue reading

Posted in Alsace, Alto Adige, California, France, Gewurztraminer, Italy, Riesling | Leave a comment

Gris and grigio

This flight examines 3 approaches to the grape that goes by both the names Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio. Cantina Terlano Alto Adige Pinot Grigio Denominazione di Origine Controllata 2006 Mineral and stone fruit flavors with palpable acidity. Bottled in … Continue reading

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Nutty dessert

Lustau, Sherry, Denominaciónes de Origen, Solera Reserva, Rare Cream nv This is a step up from Lustau’s Deluxe Cream Sherry and cries out for a fireplace after dinner. There’s tons of complexity to this wine, the sort of experience for … Continue reading

Posted in Andalucia, Jerez, Palomino, Sherry, Spain | Leave a comment

Rioja star

Muga Rioja DOC Reserva 2004 This wine has some guts for aging. There’s sweet oak, black fruit and a nice light level of brett to add complexity to this structured baby. 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and 10% Mazuelo and Graciano. … Continue reading

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Spanish values

San Alejandro Calatalud Las Rocas Garnacha 2005 100% Grenache, 70-100 years old. The Las Rocas line is bottled for Eric Solomon, from a cooperative effort of growers in Calatalud. Elabroado y embotellado in Miedes 14.5% $8.49 at Bottle Barn Legaris … Continue reading

Posted in Calatayud, California, Ribera del Duero, Spain | Leave a comment

Albarino in vogue

Albarino, a.k.a., Alvarinho, is hot. This refresher from Iberia is becoming more visible in America, with more imports from abroad and more plantings on the homefront. Condes de Albarei, Rias Baixas DO, Albarino 2007 Fully aromatic and lip smacking with … Continue reading

Posted in Albariño, California, Galicia, Monterey County, Rias Baixas, Spain | Leave a comment

Partners in wine

Zin and Petite often work together, one behind the scenes of the other who gets the billing on the label. Claudia Springs Redwood Valley John Ricetti Vineyard Zinfandel 2005 There’s jammy fruit and a little warmth from the alcohol. Winemaker … Continue reading

Posted in California, Dry Creek Valley, Mendocino County, Petite Sirah, Redwood Valley, Sonoma County, Zinfandel | Leave a comment

A touch of sweetness

Pine Ridge California Chenin Blanc – Viognier 2007 Pine Ridge has made some incarnation of Chenin for years. This blend couples 80% Chenin Blanc, which has ample acidity, with 20% Viognier, adding aromatics and lusciousness. There’s a touch of residual … Continue reading

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2 sides of dry part 3

There’s a broad spectrum to what is considered dry white wine, as we see in these two examples from California. Kunde Estate Sonoma Valley Magnolia Lane Sauvignon Blanc 2007 This is an exciting wine of floral and citrus notes, high … Continue reading

Posted in California, Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley, Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley | Leave a comment

Red style part 2

Here we take another look at variations on the taste and feel of dry red wine. ZD Carneros Pinot Noir 2006 Lots of sweet cherries and palpable acidity make this a refreshing Pinot. This wine originates with Pinot grown in … Continue reading

Posted in Alexander Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon, California, Carneros, Napa Valley, Petite Sirah, Pinot Noir, Sonoma County | Leave a comment

2 sides of dry part 2

Another round of variations on the theme of dry white wine. Longboard Vineyards Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Citrus and herbs in a high acid profile with citrus peel in the mouth. This Sauvignon is mostly done in stainless … Continue reading

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Red style

Like white wine, red wine comes in many shapes and sizes, from the silky, flowing ribbons to brawny, square-jawed brawlers. Here are 3 takes on red wine style. Lincourt Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir 2004 Easy drinking cherries in a … Continue reading

Posted in Alexander Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon, California, Lodi, Petite Sirah, Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County, Sonoma County | Leave a comment

2 sides of dry

So many of us enjoy dry white wine. Yet what is dry is not one thing, as we see in the case of these two dry white wines. Benziger Sonoma Valley MacLeod Family Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2006 This is crisp … Continue reading

Posted in California, Carneros, Chardonnay, Napa Valley, Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley | Leave a comment

Heron spotted

Heron Hill Finger Lakes Ingle Vineyard Riesling 2005 The smell is a combination of lime, flowers and that Riesling petrol quality. The mouth features the sweet tart character often associated with German Riesling. It is very concentrated with great length … Continue reading

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