Hungary Reigns

The previous tasting in the California and Europe class in San Francisco pitted Baumard against Oremus. Tonight’s flight brings in a different top-flight producer, this time from Sauternes. Both the Raymond-Lafon and the Oremus will be tasted side-by-side. In both cases the Oremus proved the favorite.

Chateau Raymond-Lafon Sauternes 2002
My notes from the more recent 2003 show amazing balance for such a lusciously sweet wine with creme caramel flavors. Going back to the 2002, my notes again emphasize the complexity, concentration and appropriate VA levels. It was a class favorite, very rich and thick, like drinking creme caramel, that is, if you could. Again it is luscious like creme caramel in a glass and very long. Planted80% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon. The Famille Meslier is Pierre et Charles-Henri Meslier, Proprietaire a Sauternes 13.5% $39.95 (375ml) at Traverso’s Raymond Lafon

Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2003
The previous bottle showed good acidity and fresh fruit though not as stunning as I remember from past vintages – given the high price, perhaps an off bottle. Today’s bottle is back on track with caramel and notes of lanolin. The acidity balances the caramel and buttery richness with perhaps less sense of acidity than other vintages. Toute la recolte et mis in Rochefort sur Loire 12.5% $52.99 at Bottle Barn Baumard

Oremus Tokaji Aszú 3 Puttonyos 2000
Complexity and richness balanced by lemony acidity. It’s the acidity and fresh fruit flavors that intertwine with the complexity of botrytis and thick texture. We tasted this back in November of ’07 and the class absolutely loved this and I did and still do too. Very hard to beat!  The estate is guided by Andras Bacso. P&B in Tolcsva 12.5% $33 back then and up to $43.99 in January ’09 (500ml) at Traverso’s oremus

About Ray

Ray Johnson is the Executive Director of the Wine Business Institute at Sonoma State University. He writes about food and wine, his travels and the business of wine. He makes his home in Sonoma County, California.
This entry was posted in Chenin Blanc, France, Furmint, Hungary, Late Harvest White, Loire Valley, Quarts de Chaume, Sauternes, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Tokaji. Bookmark the permalink.

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