Dried grapes dry wine

Valpolicella is a fascinating area where red wines are constructed from varying degrees of dried grapes. This flight runs from straight-on harvested fruit to all raisins, yet each of the wines is dry.

Allegrini Valpolicella Classico DOC 2005 The first taste of the 2005 was very clean and fruity with good acidity and some earthy notes. Again the second bottle was fresh, showing lots of cherry fruit and ample acidity. The latest bottle was a consistent repeat. This wine is 60% Corvina Veronese, 35% Rondinella, 5% Molinara and is estate bottled in Fumane di Valpolicella 13% $14.99 at Traverso’s allegrini.it

Masi Rosso Del Veronese Indicazione Geografica Tipica Campofiorin Ripasso 2004 The bottle tasted earlier this year showed complexity, prunes and raisins at a good value price. The recent bottle showed the softness and lower acid that can accompany many ripasso-style wines while at the same time having some earthiness. The bottle opened on September 24 however, was more earthy and astringent than the previous. After spending more time with this, after a few hours, I came to see this as a low-level TCA issue – cork taint I’m afraid was the reason that the dried fruits were not showing, in fact the nose was rather closed compared to previous notes. Mostly Corvina, this Ripasso by Masi is trademarked as Campofiorin. P&B in Valpolicella using appassimento (semi-drying) and controlled double fermentation 13% $9.99 at Traverso’s masi.it

Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2001 Elegant Amarone with ample glycerine and perhaps a touch of RS – quite approachable and ready to drink – silky wine. Today’s bottle took at least 30 minutes to open up and blow off some unpleasant sulfur-related smells. Allow time to air. There is a sense of the alcohol showing behind the supple texture. 75% Corvina Veronese, 20% Rondinella, 5% Molinara, harvested Sept, dried 100 days and fermented in January 15% $69.95 at Traverso’s allegrini.it

About Ray

Ray Johnson is the Executive Director of the Wine Business Institute at Sonoma State University. He writes about food and wine, his travels and the business of wine. He makes his home in Sonoma County, California.
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